Saturday, October 23, 2010

B3 nymph tutorial


   Here is the recipe for my B3, or "Basic Baetis Bug."

   It was the "Biot Baetis Bug" until I started doing a few with a thread body, and I realized that "Basic" worked for the first "B" as well as biot did.

   I know that this thing looks like a lot of other bugs, but it is just such a simple thing to tie that it is going to resemble some other patterns.

TMC 2488 #20, 
Coq De Leon,
Goose Biot,
Mirror Tinsel,
TMC 16/0 thread.

start the thread at the midpoint of the hook, 
and tie in the Coq De Leon in a sparse bundle...

tie in the moistened biot with the notch facing up to
facilitate a smooth body. build a slight thread taper.

wind up the biot like so. build a thread thorax...

tie in the Mirror Tinsel

tie in a sparse clump of Antron, 8 - 10 strands. I tie it 
in with a short section extending over the eye of the hook,
and a longer section extending over the bend. this way
when you divide and pull forward the fibers, you can 
grasp the short section first, lash it down, then grab
the longer section and tie it down. you get exactly the 
same numbers of legs on both sides this way, every time.

note the un-equel length of the Antron fibers...

pull forward tinsel over thorax... 
whip finish, (be nicer to the thread than I was here)
clip the tinsel, pull the Antron back to the rear and trim
even with the barb.


Fish eat this thing's ass in the canyon.

these are twin Sitka fawns, about a foot at the 
shoulder, on Kodiak Island, Alaska.

this is a punk rock clown, rendering first
 aid to a bleeding man on stage in a diaper.



  1. great looking fly. what color biot are you using?

  2. olive in this example, but I use brown, tan, whatever.

    I used those cheap Sportsman's biots, man, I need to get some better
    quality stuff...

  3. How do you like that thread? I tried to score some but no luck!

  4. Did you ask Jeff Fryhover? ha ha ask Brian Schmidt next time...

    it is flossy, no wax, lays nice and flat. sorta tough to dub, as there is no "tooth" to it, and it will fray if you are not careful. (see above) it comes in the nicest looking colors, and ties down small. All in all, good for the little stuff, a real nice thread.

    I still prefer the Gudebrod 10/0, and have a lifetime supply of the yellow, red, and tan. but no black is there to be found in the land, *sigh*


  5. I heard that you can still get 10/0 from Chris Helm. He can order it in like 10,00 yards and re-spool it. I haven't looked into to see if it is true though.

  6. Juan, Thanks for the lead on that.

    I realized that TMC thread IS waxed... it must not be much wax, it lays flat like the UTC 70 does. my bad.


  7. love the pizza picture. Do you have a good recipe for the doughand did you just chop up the Roma's or puree them?

  8. nice flies. are you coming to show ud how you tie the new midge pupa? Your pizza recipe was and is a bit hit.

  9. Man, people love that pizza. I should just do a food blog.

    The midge is just StretchFlex, though any stretch floss or like material would serve much the same purpose.

    Start the floss like you would thread, under as much tension as you can manage without deforming the hook. I used the TMC 2488H as it can take the stress better than the standard wire TMC2488.

    Anyway, use the white StretchFlex, as it goes translucent under tension. Wrap it down towards the bend, and use a marker to color the floss whatever color suits you.

    Wrap the colored floss back toward the eye, relaxing tension as you go. This makes the taper in the body. Hit the last inch of floss with a darker color to make the head stand out.

    Whip finish the floss, pull tight, and cut.

    Cover the entire pupae with the UV goop of your choice, and hit it with a UV torch or take it outside into the sunlight.

    That is it.

    Let me know if it works for you, please.